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I picked up two good original rims from a fellow on
eBay. Sandblasted the rims along with the remaining inner
front wheel wells. I now have 5 excellent rims and about an
equal amount of bent, broken, and generally unusable rims.
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Since my car didn't originally have signal lights I
am running new wiring to accommodate a new turn signal assembly with
four way flashers.
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I am also splitting out the circuits and installing
a fuse block on the drivers side wall right below the main wiring
harness. The purpose of my restoration is not for a show
car but rather I am building a reliable driver.
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Circuit breakdown is as follows: ckt 1 -
Ignition, brake and headlamps, ckt 2 - Signal lamps and 4 way
flasher, ckt 3 - Cigarette lighter, ckt 4 - Heater blower
motor, ckt 5&6 - Are yet to be determined.
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I am running additional grounding wires to most lamps and
accessories.
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Ground continuity is extremely important especially
in a 6 vdc system. I found out first hand how true that
statement is.
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As you can see in the picture to the right I bolted
a ground wire directly to the rear signal lamp assembly. I
thought that this would give me a solid ground. Opps..
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The bulb housing is connected to the mounting
bracket via pressed tabs at the bottom. It appears corrosion
and rust between these two metal parts makes for a poor connection.
Even with the ground wire attached to the bracket when I squeezed
the bracket to assemble the lamp into the car the light would go out.
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I resolved the problem by running a copper wire from
the ground bolt directly to the lamp holder.
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I used pigtails purchased from Napa to retrofit the
existing single element holders into duel element lamp holders.
They worked perfectly after I remounted the wires into the proper
orientation. Brake & running lights are nice & bright.
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