February 3, 2008

• I started the refurbishment of my running boards.

• I am using a good 3/4 inch exterior finished plywood.

• Also as Trim..,  aluminum cap moldings.  (will be painted)

Parts List

• 23/32x2x4 Sand Pine Plywood..................$ 16.53

• 2 Aluminum Caps........................................$ 16.14

• 8 T-Nuts with prongs, 5/16 - 18x3.............$   8.32

• 8 Hex Bolts 5/16 x 18 x 1" ...........................$  2.08

•  1/8" Ribbed Rubber material....................$ 55.00

Total Cost to date: $ 98.07

Step 1

• I removed the old running boards and took careful measurements.

• The measurements are typical from the driver's side to the passenger side. 

• If you flip the diagram above it would be typical to the passenger side board.  The view to the left is the passenger side.

• At this point the overall thickness of 7/8 of an inch seems correct..., of course if in the final assembly additional thickness is needed I can always glue on an additional 1/8 or 1/4 inch ply to the bottom of the running board to ensure a clean fit.  If that is the case I will add the appropriate painted aluminum cap to match.

Step 2

• I cut the boards and inserted Pronged T nuts so the board can be bolted into place from under the car.

Step 3

• I drilled the surface with a 1 inch flat wood drill to ensure that the T nuts were flat with the finished surface.

• When I glue on the rubber I will cover the T Nuts with masking tap so that the glue doesn't get down into the nuts and push up on the rubber surface when I screw the boards into place.

The work continues...     02/24/2008

Step 4

• I decided to put aluminum trim around the whole running board. 

• I needed to route out 1/8" to allow for the rubber top.

Step 5

• I covered the pronged T nuts with tape to keep the contact cement from getting into the threads.

• I applied contact cement to the wood surface and to the rubber mat.

• Then I allowed the glue to dry and used a piece of cardboard between the wood surface and the rubber mat .  This way I could position the rubber exactly where I wanted it.

• I slowly pulled the cardboard out and allowed the rubber to bond with the wood.

Step 6

• Now the hard part.  Fitting the trim.  Because of the irregular angles a miter box couldn't be used.

• Originally I cut the wood boards to allow 1/8" on each side for over lapping the rubber.  Since I used the 1/16" channels I needed to shim the aluminum end pieces out with 1/16" shim stock.

• I must say this was the hardest part of the project.  Getting the angles correct.  The overall length was a perfect at 43 & 3/4 inch